Bubble and squeak: Difference between revisions
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[[Isabella Beeton|Mrs Beeton]]'s recipe in her ''[[Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management|Book of Household Management]]'' (1861) similarly combines cooked beef with cabbage (and, in her recipe, onions) but no potato.<ref name=mb>Beeton, p. 287</ref> An 1848 recipe from the US is similar, but adds chopped carrots.<ref name=k37>Kalman, p. 37</ref> In all of these, the meat and vegetables are served next to each other, and not mixed together.<ref name="rundell" /><ref name=mb/><ref name=k37/> | [[Isabella Beeton|Mrs Beeton]]'s recipe in her ''[[Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management|Book of Household Management]]'' (1861) similarly combines cooked beef with cabbage (and, in her recipe, onions) but no potato.<ref name=mb>Beeton, p. 287</ref> An 1848 recipe from the US is similar, but adds chopped carrots.<ref name=k37>Kalman, p. 37</ref> In all of these, the meat and vegetables are served next to each other, and not mixed together.<ref name="rundell" /><ref name=mb/><ref name=k37/> | ||
In 1872 a [[Lancashire]] newspaper offered a recipe for "delicious bubble and squeak", consisting of thinly | In 1872 a [[Lancashire]] newspaper offered a recipe for "delicious bubble and squeak", consisting of thinly sliced beef fried with cabbage and carrot,<ref>"Australian Meat", ''Blackburn Standard'', 20 March 1872, p. 4</ref> but not potatoes, although by then they had been a major crop in Lancashire for decades.<ref>Wilson, p. 218</ref> In the 1880s potatoes began to appear in recipes. In 1882 the "Household" column of ''The Manchester Times'' suggested: | ||
{{blockindent|'''Bubble and Squeak'''. – Mash four potatoes, chop a plateful of cold greens, season with a small saltspoonful of salt and the same of pepper; mix well together, and fry in dissolved dripping or butter (three ounces), stirring all the time. Cut about three-quarters of a pound of cold, boiled beef into neat, thin slices. Fry slightly over a slow fire six minutes. Put the vegetables round the dish and the meat in the centre. Serve very hot.<ref>"The Household Column", ''The Manchester Times'', 11 March 1882, p. 7</ref>|}} | {{blockindent|'''Bubble and Squeak'''. – Mash four potatoes, chop a plateful of cold greens, season with a small saltspoonful of salt and the same of pepper; mix well together, and fry in dissolved dripping or butter (three ounces), stirring all the time. Cut about three-quarters of a pound of cold, boiled beef into neat, thin slices. Fry slightly over a slow fire six minutes. Put the vegetables round the dish and the meat in the centre. Serve very hot.<ref>"The Household Column", ''The Manchester Times'', 11 March 1882, p. 7</ref>|}} | ||
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==Modern versions== | ==Modern versions== | ||
[[File:Montpelier, Peckham, London (2875954468).jpg|thumb|upright=1.25|Bubble and squeak, left]] | [[File:Montpelier, Peckham, London (2875954468).jpg|thumb|upright=1.25|Bubble and squeak, left]] | ||
Possibly because of the scarcity of beef during [[Rationing in the United Kingdom|food rationing]] in and after the [[Second World War]],<ref>McCorquodale, p. 138</ref> by the latter half of the 20th century the basic ingredients were widely considered to be cooked and mashed (or coarsely crushed) potato and chopped cooked cabbage. Those are the only two ingredients in [[Delia Smith]]'s 1987 recipe.<ref>D. Smith, p. 154</ref> [[Clarissa Dickson Wright]]'s 1996 version consists of crushed cooked potatoes, finely chopped raw onion, and cooked cabbage (or [[ | Possibly because of the scarcity of beef during [[Rationing in the United Kingdom|food rationing]] in and after the [[Second World War]],<ref>McCorquodale, p. 138</ref> by the latter half of the 20th century the basic ingredients were widely considered to be cooked and mashed (or coarsely crushed) potato and chopped cooked cabbage. Those are the only two ingredients in [[Delia Smith]]'s 1987 recipe.<ref>D. Smith, p. 154</ref> [[Clarissa Dickson Wright]]'s 1996 version consists of crushed cooked potatoes, finely chopped raw onion, and cooked cabbage (or [[Brussels sprouts]]), seasoned with salt and pepper, mixed together and shallow-fried until browned on the exterior.<ref name=tfl>Paterson and Dickson Wright, p. 97.</ref> Like Smith, Dickson Wright specifies [[dripping]] (or [[lard]]) for frying, finding vegetable oil unsuitable for frying bubble and squeak, because the mixture will not brown adequately.<ref name=tfl/> Several other cooks find oil or butter satisfactory.<ref>Hix, p. 214; Oliver, p. 383; and J. Smith, p. 247</ref> | ||
[[Fiona Beckett]] (2008), like Smith and Dickson Wright, stipulates no ingredients other than potato and cabbage,<ref>Beckett, p. 169</ref> | [[Fiona Beckett]] (2008), like Smith and Dickson Wright, stipulates no ingredients other than potato and cabbage,<ref>Beckett, p. 169</ref> | ||
but there are many published variants of the basic recipe. [[Gary Rhodes]] favours sliced | but there are many published variants of the basic recipe. [[Gary Rhodes]] favours sliced Brussels sprouts, rather than cabbage, with gently cooked sliced onions and mashed potato, fried in butter.<ref>Rhodes, pp. 118–119</ref> He comments that although the basic ingredients of bubble and squeak and [[colcannon]] are similar, the two are very different dishes, the former being traditionally made from leftovers and fried to give a brown crust, and the latter "a completely separate dish of potato, [[spring onion]] and cabbage, served almost as creamed potatoes".<ref name=gr>Rhodes, pp. 139 and 147</ref> | ||
[[Jeff Smith (chef)|Jeff Smith]] (1987) adds grated [[courgettes]] and chopped ham and bacon.<ref>J. Smith, p. 247</ref> [[Mark Hix]] (2005) adds cooked and chopped leeks and swede to the mix.<ref>Hix, p. 214</ref> [[Jamie Oliver]] (2007) adds chestnuts and "whatever veg you like – carrots, Brussels, [[swede (vegetable)|swedes]], [[turnip]]s, onions, leeks or [[Savoy cabbage]]".<ref>Oliver, p. 383</ref> [[Nigel Slater]], in a 2013 recipe using Christmas leftovers, adds chopped goose, ham and pumpkin to the mixture.<ref name=ns>Slater, Nigel. [https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/bauble_and_squeak_09032 "Christmas bubble and squeak"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200815205419/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/bauble_and_squeak_09032 |date=15 August 2020 }}, BBC. Retrieved 27 October 2020</ref> | [[Jeff Smith (chef)|Jeff Smith]] (1987) adds grated [[courgettes]] and chopped ham and bacon.<ref>J. Smith, p. 247</ref> [[Mark Hix]] (2005) adds cooked and chopped leeks and swede to the mix.<ref>Hix, p. 214</ref> [[Jamie Oliver]] (2007) adds chestnuts and "whatever veg you like – carrots, Brussels, [[swede (vegetable)|swedes]], [[turnip]]s, onions, leeks or [[Savoy cabbage]]".<ref>Oliver, p. 383</ref> [[Nigel Slater]], in a 2013 recipe using Christmas leftovers, adds chopped goose, ham and pumpkin to the mixture.<ref name=ns>Slater, Nigel. [https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/bauble_and_squeak_09032 "Christmas bubble and squeak"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200815205419/https://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/bauble_and_squeak_09032 |date=15 August 2020 }}, BBC. Retrieved 27 October 2020</ref> | ||
The mixture is then [[Shallow frying|shallow fried]], either shaped into round cakes or as a single panful and then sliced. The first method is suggested by Delia Smith, Hix and Slater; Rhodes finds both methods satisfactory; Dickson Wright, Oliver and Jeff Smith favour the whole-pan method.<ref name=ns/><ref>Hix, p. 214; Oliver, p. 383; Paterson and Dickson Wright, p. 97; Rhodes, pp. 118–119; D. Smith, p. 154; and J. Smith, p. 247</ref> | The mixture is then [[Shallow frying|shallow-fried]], either shaped into round cakes or as a single panful and then sliced. The first method is suggested by Delia Smith, Hix and Slater; Rhodes finds both methods satisfactory; Dickson Wright, Oliver and Jeff Smith favour the whole-pan method.<ref name=ns/><ref>Hix, p. 214; Oliver, p. 383; Paterson and Dickson Wright, p. 97; Rhodes, pp. 118–119; D. Smith, p. 154; and J. Smith, p. 247</ref> | ||
==Outside Britain== | ==Outside Britain== | ||
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* [[Stoemp]] from Belgium | * [[Stoemp]] from Belgium | ||
* [[Calentao]], from Colombia | * [[Calentao]], from Colombia | ||
* [[Bauernfrühstück]] and [[Stemmelkort]], from Germany | * [[Bauernfrühstück]] and [[Stemmelkort]], from Germany | ||
* [[Aloo tikki]], from India | * [[Aloo tikki]], from India | ||
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* [[Trinxat]], from the [[La Cerdanya]] region of [[Catalonia]], northeast Spain and [[Andorra]] | * [[Trinxat]], from the [[La Cerdanya]] region of [[Catalonia]], northeast Spain and [[Andorra]] | ||
* [[Matevž]], from [[Slovenian cuisine|Slovenia]] | * [[Matevž]], from [[Slovenian cuisine|Slovenia]] | ||
* [[Pyttipanna| | * [[Pyttipanna|Pytt i panna, Pytt i panne, Pyttipannu and Biksemad]] from Sweden, Norway, Finland and Denmark | ||
* [[Hash (food)|Hash]], from the United States | * [[Hash (food)|Hash]], from the United States | ||
{{div col end}} | {{div col end}} | ||
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[[Category:Food combinations]] | [[Category:Food combinations]] | ||
[[Category:Breakfast dishes]] | [[Category:Breakfast dishes]] | ||
[[Category:Peasant foods]] | |||
[[Category:Peasant | |||